Hand Dyeing Wool Using Advanced Methods -- Equipment Discussion
Posted: Wednesday, April 28, 2010
by Susan Sylvia
Ram in the Thicket
This is the second in a series of articles on the subject of dyeing wool, using the three primaries, metric measurement, liquid dyestock, and percentage-based formulas. In the first installment, I described an overview of the methods I use to dye wool, and the reasoning behind them. In this installment, I will go into more detail about the equipment I prefer to use.
Following are ideas and suggestions for supplies to use – at least, equipment that has worked well for me. At the end of the article I will provide links and other information about where to find these supplies.
WOOL
I always use white wool, or the lightest natural wool possible. This keeps the purchasing of raw materials to a minimum and also standardizes an important variable when analyzing basic colors. For instance, when looking at two similar wool colors with the idea of creating the color between the two, it would be much more difficult if two different base colors were used for the two pieces, making the dye formulas for the colors used to overdye them, therefore, very different. But finding that 'in-between' color when looking at two wool colors both created using the same three primaries on white or natural wool is much easier. By standardizing the base color and using only primary dyes, both formulas are related. So the in-between color will be produced using a mathematical formula somewhere between the other two similar mathematical formulas. If I make a mistake in mixing a formula, I often catch it when comparing the resulting color to the colors on either mathematical side of it, if it does not follow the logical progression of color, which colors do. This systematic approach has created a predictability to dyeing that is very satisfying and comfortable. If I do want a special effect using a different base color, I can always dye the white wool to this base, and then finish the special effect. I find this occasional need for a two-step process preferable to stocking many colors of wool.
DYES
I use ProChem washfast acid dyes, purchasing the three primaries that they offer. With these colors, it is possible to produce a complete range of colors in many values, from near white to dark black -- just about any color I would ever want. Although plain greys and blacks can be produced with the primaries, I have found that those formulas don't work as well for specialty effects, such as gradation dip dyes. The formula will tend to separate into its components as the color develops, giving an unpredictable result. Not that this won't be usable or desirable in certain circumstances, it just may not be what I am after. So the preformulated black from ProChem is more predictable, and therefore preferable, for distressing and antiquing, and for highly mottled effects. Basic browns and tans are also more difficult to produce with consistency, so the casual dyer may want to stock grey, black, and/or some browns, along with the primaries.
COOKING VESSELS
I do two kinds of dyeing, each with its own process and cooking vessels:
Trialing of colors on small pieces of wool, to find new colors
Dyeing large pieces of wool for my own use or for sale.
I trial colors on 4-gram pieces of wool (a scant 5" X 5" in 13-oz. wool), one piece in each of six beakers filled halfway with water, in a dry casserole (just to hold them--any stable non-metal vessel will do) cooked in the microwave. I use scientific beakers in a 300 ml size, because they are built to tolerate repeated heating and cooling without breaking. They are slender, so I find them easier to handle, and I can fit more into a pot or casserole. (Mason jars will work just fine for the casual dyer.) I have trialed literally thousands of pieces of wool, and I have found the microwave to be the most convenient and definitely the most cost-effective approach. I have also tried putting beakers or jars in a water bath on the stove and in the oven, but I found this process to be more time consuming and logistically more difficult, so I have stuck with the microwave. You may find you prefer another method, so just use whatever method that suits you, as long as it gets the water simmering in each jar. If you do use your microwave, please be cautious when heating the water in the little pots. If it gets to a good boil, sometimes it will unexpectedly 'explode' or 'pop', possibly burning you. Wear protective gloves over your hands and wrists when the water is near boiling. In all my hundreds of batches, this has happened twice, and I got a nasty burn one of those times.
For large pieces of wool, I use the standard stainless steel pots that many dyers use. If you are using an electric stove, you may need to place something extra between the burner and the wool, unless you are using a good, heavy pot. A thin metal pot resting directly on the burner will cause any wool laying against the bottom of the pot to grab the color, causing dark splotches. So you have two options. A spacer can be put between the pot and the burner, or a vegetable steamer can be placed in the bottom of the pot to prevent this. I prefer the vegetable steamer myself, because then I can protect the wool, while leaving the pot directly on the burner so the water heats up faster. (I'm always in a hurry.)
MEASURING IMPLEMENTS
I use a 3,000 gram digital scale that weighs to the nearest gram, with a bin for holding wool. It is compact, easy to use, not too expensive, and does the job.
For small pieces I use 1-ml, 3-ml, 5-ml, and 10-ml syringes. For larger pieces I switch to 20-ml syringes, or 250 ml plastic beakers. For measuring even larger amounts, I use the plastic pitchers graded to 1,000 ml from ProChem, and I have tested and found that the gradations on these larger containers track quite accurately with the ml gradations of the smaller syringes and beakers, so when measuring varying amounts of dye, I feel confident that if I measure part of a formula in a pitcher and some in a very small syringe, that the ratios of the formulas will still be accurate. I have tried other sizes in syringes and pitchers, but have found them to be less reliable in terms of the accuracy of their markings, although this may just be a problem with the particular products I have come across. For the casual dyer all of this may not be important, but if you are into precision dyeing, it certainly does make a difference, as my pile of reject colors will attest. And be aware that the markings do rub off after repeated use on many syringes, so try to avoid touching the numbers and gradation lines as you work.
AUXILIARY SUPPLIES
I use Synthrapol or original Dawn liquid (very similar, chemically) to reduce surface tension while dyeing.
I use either citric acid or vinegar to reduce dye-bath pH, and if you have access to "sour salt" at reasonable prices (it can be found sometimes at dented can stores) this also works, because it is straight citric acid. As most dyers will tell you, vinegar is much more expensive to use over the long-term, so if you plan to dye in quantity, use citric acid, which is also more convenient and pleasant to use.
For stirring I use stainless steel chopsticks – they work great when trialing colors in little pots, and also work fine in big pots, too, for pieces up to ½ yard. I purchased several pairs and keep them in a beaker filled with water while dyeing. This keeps them rinsed when I am stirring several pots at a time with dramatically different dye colors in them, particularly if I stir a black in one pot and a pale yellow in the next. It is amazing how a tiny bit of black dye clinging to the chopstick can alter the color of a pale yellow. (Don't ask me how I know.) I like them also because they don't absorb the dye and are compact and easy to store. Not great for picking up rice, though.
I use Glauber's salt to keep the colors even on the wool, which is how I sell it -- just lightly mottled. Salt molecules compete with the dye molecules to bond with the wool molecules, effectively slowing down the bonding of the dye to the wool, and thereby preventing the dye from 'grabbing' in blotches. For most colors this is not an issue with regular stirring, and for most of the colors in my collection, I don't use it. But for light browns, tans, greys, and some very dull blues, greens and purples, it is essential for even color, particularly in the lighter values, up to the medium levels. I don't use it on darker levels, because I find that it dramatically retards the absorption of the yellow dye when there is a lot of dye in the pot, often doubling the processing time. If you prefer an irregular color and/or don't mind a little serendipity in the dyepot sometimes, leave out the salt. If you want to use it, I find that plain table salt also works fine.
Below are some sources for finding supplies. I distribute these articles to several article sites, some of which have strict limits on the number of URLs one can use in an article, so I will give the names and trust you can find them easily online.
Dorr Mill Wool (I have also used other sources, such as
Woolrich)
ProChemical & Dye Dyes, plastic beakers, pitchers, citric acid, Glauber's salt,
Synthrapol
SKS science.com Glass beakers (Also available at other science or lab
supply sites)
Old Will Knott Sales Scale (Look for the 'My Weigh 3001P')
(online)
cooking.com Stainless steel chopsticks, vegetable steamer
(Also found at other kitchen retailers)
Syringes Your local drugstore will often provide you with several slip-tip (without needle) 1-ml syringes for free if you smile sweetly and don't ask too often. (They may also have 3-ml syringes available.) They provide these as a courtesy to anyone. I request 3-4 at a time. You can also find 10-ml syringes at the drugstore for a few dollars. These sizes are the mainstay of color trialing small pieces of wool, and I also frequently use them for larger pieces -- even when dyeing 1/2 yard, a 5% (pale) value still only requires 10 ml of dye. Ebay and eCrater are also good online sources for syringes of all sizes. Look for veterinary syringes for larger sizes (60-ml is common) although I have found the 250-ml pitchers from ProChem to be more accurate, and just as easy to use. I have searched online medical supply companies for syringes without much success, price-wise, but if you should come across a good source, please let me know!
In case you would like to have a concise and exhaustive list of all equipment you would need to try this method, here it is. Much of this you will have at home, or know where to get without my help.
Wool
Sun Yellow dye 119
WF Magenta dye 338
Brilliant Blue dye 490
Black dye 672
Brown dye (optional, also available at ProChem)
Citric Acid or distilled vinegar
Glauber's Salt or table salt (optional)
Synthrapol or Dawn dish liquid
Plastic pitchers -- 5 - 6 in 250-ml size, 2 - 3 in 1,000-ml size
(All of the above can be found at ProChem.)
1-ml, 3-ml, 10-ml syringes
Digital Scale
Stirrers
Utility spoon for scooping dyes when weighing (any old teaspoon or measuring spoon will do)
Screw cap milk jugs (or smaller jugs if you prefer) for holding dyestock
In addition, if you will be trialing colors you will need:
6 - 12 Beakers or Mason jars
Casserole or other flat vessel
Microwave (preferably dedicated to dyeing)
6-8 Additional small glasses or cups for mixing formulas will be handy
Or for dyeing larger pieces:
3-4 large stainless steel or enamel pots, about 20-quart size
Vegetable steamers (optional)
I hope this information gets you started. In the fourth installment, I will describe how I trial colors. It's a fun project that I guarantee will consume you if you are not careful! You will need to set aside several days for this, depending upon how thorough you want to be. I can't be held responsible if it turns into weeks. By then, your family will be hoping for soup cooking in the pots, instead of wool -- better stock up on frozen dinners!
To see the results of my color trials, please visit the link below.
Copyright Susan Sylvia 2010
@pagebreak
This Article has been viewed 849 times. (Not updated in real-time.)
No comments yet.We want your comments! If you can read this, you don't have javascript enabled, so you can't use this comment system. Please enable javascript.